Barberitos rolls a good one

By DREW HALL

After two trips to Barberitos on the Eastside of Athens in less than a week, I think impressed is a good word choice to describe my experience. Since Barberitos is my favorite restaurant already, I found I had to go twice, just in case, to see if I could find any flaws. It was hard.

My first trip was on Jerk Fish Fridays, which means, Fish Tacos! I personally had never been a fan of fish tacos because they just sound disgusting. I didn't think anyone should mix two perfectly good foods together to make some concoction I'd never venture to try. But, I tried it this Friday. It was superb. The fish was sauteed to goodness and mixed with just the right spice to make it delicious but not overrun with flavor. Top off the taco with their freshly made guacomole and some fresh sour cream and you're set. But, if you really want a taste that's over the top, you've got to add the chipotle ranch to your meal. A friend suggested it to me, and I've never eaten a burrito without it since.

Not only was the taco delicious, the chips were fresh out of the fryer and packed to the top with spice. Two different types of homemade salsa await you at the salsa bar and some of their special recipe hot sauce as well. I had Diet Coke to drink, but they also serve beer, both domestic and a few Mexican and local breweries. With my whole meal totaling $5.25, it was a good price for a lot better than Taco Bell.

My second trip on Sunday night I chose to try the ground beef Heavy D nachos. Though they are a little more expensive than the taco, I still found it tasty. I usually get steak, but decided to try the ground beef, once again looking for a flaw. The beef was dripping with flavor and it covered the nachos better than the steak in my opinion. Of course, nachos are usually eaten with your fingers, but these nachos piled high with guac, sour cream, mouth-watering melted cheese, and anything else you could think of, have to be eaten with a fork.

I'm a big guy, but I couldn't eat it all. And since it's right under $10 for the entire meal, it's good that most people could just share one helping. My dog Hank seconded my opinion as he inhaled my leftovers in the parking lot.

So, if you're looking for Mexican taste, without the sit-down and have-to-tip business and Taco Bell just isn't cutting it anymore. Go to Barberitos. With four locations in the Athens area, you've got to be close.

Verdict: Damn-good Mexican food, without the worry of tipping.

Barberitos

1860 Barnett Shoals Rd

Athens, GA 30605

Get Directions

(706) 549-9954

* approximate times

- barberitos.com




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Mexicali lacks taste, literally

By BRITTANY COFER

Mexicali Grille has been serving the Athens community with its own brand of “authentic Mexican” food for nearly two decades.

With two locations, anyone in Athens has access to Mexicali. The margaritas are consistently voted the best in Athens, according to its Web site, and the dishes are described as “Mexican comfort food.” Mexicali Grille claims to provide its customers with the best quality, value and service in Athens.

I beg to differ.

The dimly lit establishment on College Station Road is one of the last places I’d go for quality or value. On a busy night the entrance alone would be enough to frighten away any party of more than two. The waiting area is nonexistent, leaving patrons to loiter outside if the restaurant is the least bit crowded.

As I walked in, luckily not subjected to the tiny waiting area between the wall and check-out counter, I noticed something strange. Many Mexican restaurants play Latino music to add to the atmosphere, trying to trick the customer into believing they are eating authentic Mexican dishes. Mexicali management apparently decided to forego the trickery and play a local classic hits station instead.

Then I started noticing other things that did not seem right. The wait staff consisted not of smiling men and women with interesting accents, but instead of tired-looking college students, who seemed ready to go home. My server was rather clumsy, spilling cold cheese dip all over my menu. “Just give it to me and I will go wash it off,” she said. I wonder how many times a night she has to wash her menus?

Mexicali’s Web site references a quote from Restaurantica.com stating the food is great and affordable. Since I do not know who the site is quoting, my best guess is someone who is not on a college budget and has suffered severe taste bud loss. The prices for the supposedly “great and affordable” Mexican food were outrageous. I have been to many Mexican restaurants and my plate is never over $8. The check for two adult meals, drinks and cheese dip included, was over $40.

The chilly cheese dip, which my menu enjoyed, was a little spicy for my taste, but otherwise not bad. I was pleased to see there was more than enough food, as there should be when charging roughly $10 per plate. But I was disappointed when I bit into my bland beef soft taco, which also was under heated. The rice was clumpy, but otherwise edible. I tried the chicken chimichanga, also lacking proper seasoning. My bland beef soft taco could not even be remedied by adding guacamole, since it too was tasteless. I might have had better luck nibbling on a napkin.

Beer selection was lacking, especially considering that Athens is a college town where drinking is a favorite common pastime. And oddly enough there were no Mexican beers on tap. Mexicali’s claims of authenticity were being destroyed with every passing moment.

I admit my experience may have been overshadowed by the fact that I felt as if I were eating in a dungeon. The poor lighting and hard booth seats made dining uncomfortable. Twice my drink disappeared at the same time the server did, forcing me to wait until she sashayed back to the table to grudgingly refill my sweet tea. Though not rude, the wait staff seemed indifferent and uncaring to customers. I watched as a family of four entered the restaurant and waited five minutes before anyone acknowledged their existence. The servers appeared more interested in their own conversations than in providing quality service.

I would not recommend Mexicali Grille. Its claims of serving quality, affordable food are utterly untrue. Cold cheese dip, under-seasoned meat and over-priced products make this the last place I’d go for a quality meal. There are plenty other Mexican restaurants in Athens, such as Taqueria del Sol, La Cazuela and La Parrilla, that provide a more authentic and pleasurable dining experience.

VERDICT: No es bueno.

MEXICALI
2301 College Station Rd,
Athens, Ga.
www.mexicaligrilleathens.com


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Taqueria del Sol satisfies skeptical foodie

By COLIN DUNLOP

I just don't understand the hype.

Ever since the strange, modular gray structure on Prince Avenue was identified as a future Taqueria del Sol, my friends have been going nuts. "It's so awesome," they all said.

Well it's not awesome, but it's definitely better than average. Taqueria del Sol's set up is pretty uncomplicated: stand in line, order at the counter, sit down and the food comes to you. Usually I hate waiting in line, but the nice thing about TDS is that alcohol can be inserted anywhere in this equation — and with a 45-minute line, it's a welcome relief. Add in large hanging space heaters and benches along the way and waiting in line becomes much less of a chore.

Walking into TDS, it's easy to forget you're in Athens. Usually, when a new restaurant comes to town it's just new wallpaper on ancient walls, but with Taqueria del Sol's modular, minimalist design it feels like Atlanta's Midtown scene. Seating is mostly contained in a convertible shelter, with more hanging space heaters providing ample heat and plastic windows covering large windows rolled down for colder days.

Inside, the bar area displays a large selection of tequila, but just a few other liquors off to the side. Eighteen types of beer sit above the ordering counter — many of which are Mexican imports — but the real treat is TDS's margaritas. Almost every patron in line was holding one, so I knew that I'd have to have one too.

The menu has a weekly rotating schedule of dinner specials (a chef's, a seafood and a taco special), as well as their regular staple menu with six original tacos, four styles of enchiladas and a host of side items. There's definitely no comfort foods on the menu — save the rice and beans — so if you're in the mood for more traditional Mexican fare head down Prince Avenue to Aqua Linda.

Starting off, the cheese dip was great, but didn't vanish nearly as quick as the guacamole. The chunky bits of avocado were seasoned well, and the endless chips made quick work of the starter. It didn't matter, though, as the main dishes were hastily delivered.

I sampled four of the six soft-shelled tacos and the fish was by far the best. The Carnita was a promising pork-filled tortilla, but with an exceedingly spicy salsa center. The brisket was overly dry, shredded, and with a small helping of pico de gallo to top it off. Being adverse to large helpings of mayonnaise, the fried chicken taco was disappointing (I really love fried chicken). I hesitantly tried the fish taco and was pleasantly surprised by how truly delicious it was.

The fish was a lightly-breaded fried tilapia. It didn't taste as aquatic as I feared and the poblano tartar sauce was the perfect tangy compliment. The taco normally comes served with jalepeños, but after the Carnita's tongue torching I made sure to have a bite without the dark green accents.

It is worth mentioning that Taqueria del Sol is pretty cheap. The tacos and sides are only about $2 apiece — and you get a lot for what you order. Five tacos, guacamole dip, rice, beans, a frozen margarita and a Diet Coke was only about $26. Now that I know it won't break the bank, I'll definitely be going back to sample more exotic fare — especially the Memphis barbecue taco. I'll probably also have to have the guacamole again too. Oh, and of course a pitcher of frozen margaritas.

Damn.

Maybe I am starting to understand the hype.

VERDICT: Affordable Mexican food? Great. Affordable, good Mexican food? Even better.

TAQUERIA DEL SOL
334 Prince Ave.
Athens, Ga.
www.taqueriadelsol.com (w/ menu)