Barberitos rolls a good one

By DREW HALL

After two trips to Barberitos on the Eastside of Athens in less than a week, I think impressed is a good word choice to describe my experience. Since Barberitos is my favorite restaurant already, I found I had to go twice, just in case, to see if I could find any flaws. It was hard.

My first trip was on Jerk Fish Fridays, which means, Fish Tacos! I personally had never been a fan of fish tacos because they just sound disgusting. I didn't think anyone should mix two perfectly good foods together to make some concoction I'd never venture to try. But, I tried it this Friday. It was superb. The fish was sauteed to goodness and mixed with just the right spice to make it delicious but not overrun with flavor. Top off the taco with their freshly made guacomole and some fresh sour cream and you're set. But, if you really want a taste that's over the top, you've got to add the chipotle ranch to your meal. A friend suggested it to me, and I've never eaten a burrito without it since.

Not only was the taco delicious, the chips were fresh out of the fryer and packed to the top with spice. Two different types of homemade salsa await you at the salsa bar and some of their special recipe hot sauce as well. I had Diet Coke to drink, but they also serve beer, both domestic and a few Mexican and local breweries. With my whole meal totaling $5.25, it was a good price for a lot better than Taco Bell.

My second trip on Sunday night I chose to try the ground beef Heavy D nachos. Though they are a little more expensive than the taco, I still found it tasty. I usually get steak, but decided to try the ground beef, once again looking for a flaw. The beef was dripping with flavor and it covered the nachos better than the steak in my opinion. Of course, nachos are usually eaten with your fingers, but these nachos piled high with guac, sour cream, mouth-watering melted cheese, and anything else you could think of, have to be eaten with a fork.

I'm a big guy, but I couldn't eat it all. And since it's right under $10 for the entire meal, it's good that most people could just share one helping. My dog Hank seconded my opinion as he inhaled my leftovers in the parking lot.

So, if you're looking for Mexican taste, without the sit-down and have-to-tip business and Taco Bell just isn't cutting it anymore. Go to Barberitos. With four locations in the Athens area, you've got to be close.

Verdict: Damn-good Mexican food, without the worry of tipping.

Barberitos

1860 Barnett Shoals Rd

Athens, GA 30605

Get Directions

(706) 549-9954

* approximate times

- barberitos.com




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All the wrong spice at Five Star Day

By BRIAN CREECH

“You should never have to salt soul food” was the final verdict of my companion as she lifted a pale forkful of the Five Star Day Café’s macaroni and cheese off her plate and then letting it drop on top of the rest of the quickly congealing mound. We were in Five Star Day’s baby-blue Athens’ Eastside location, where the food is deceptively billed as “gourmet soul food.”

Granted, soul food is a notoriously difficult term to define to an outsider. That’s because it is much more ephemeral than just a classic bit of oversalted meat and three vegetables, probably cooked with bacon. It’s a comforting and friendly quality that separates local legends like Weaver D’s from fast-food derivatives like Bojangles and Kentucky Fried Chicken.

I’d venture to say that soul food is 50 percent atmosphere, and the Eastside Five Star Day easily bests its downtown counterpart. The quaint, mismatched tablecloths, flower fixtures and local art are the products of a clear community connection. Five Star Day strives to represent some of Athens’ weirder qualities by combing the feel of your grandmother’s kitchen with Edvard Munch-derived paintings. The overhead music is mostly local bands, and most of the staff moonlight as musicians, artists, actors and activists.

With that being said, the food at Five Star Day tastes like the cook has another job that he’d rather be doing. The most blatant culprit was the aforementioned pallid macaroni and cheese, an example of comfort food too self-conscious to be comfortable.

The daily special was a beef brisket, served along a bed of cabbage and sautéed tomatoes seasoned with paprika and diced red peppers. It was the most thoroughly seasoned item of the meal, and its flavor seeped across the plate into the gooey and fried corn and mashed potatoes. The tomatoes and cabbage brought both color and balance to a plate that could have been brought down by too much starch. It could pass for soul food on a good day.

My companion ordered the chicken and dumplings, which came adorned with a star-shaped biscuit. This attempt at flash barely compensates for a thin broth filled with too-doughy dumplings and stringy chicken. When paired with the maligned macaroni and cheese, the lack of taste becomes overbearing and tedious. I’m not a fan of salt, but nearly every bite of chicken and dumplings needed it.

Adding salt to soul food is the highest and most unfortunate form of irony. Fortunately, Five Star Day saves itself with the fried green tomatoes. Battered in thick corn meal and adorned with black-eyed peas, caramelized onions, hominy corn, diced peppers and an oil and vinegar sauce, they are the most unique flavor on the menu. Unfortunately, they are just an appetizer or side item, merely the supporting actors to a cast of underwhelming entrees.

Don’t get me wrong: aside from a few examples, the food at Five Star Day is not all bad-- it just claims to be more than it really is. This sense of culinary hubris pulls the food away from its roots, as if it is more concerned with adopting a type of style than offering substance. This notion is misguided, because soul food is supposed to communicate a feeling beyond the ingredients of the plate. It’s hard to point out exactly what ingredients are missing from the food at Five Star Day, but whatever it is, it can’t compensate for a chronic lack of soul.

VERDICT: More like a two-star day.

FIVE STAR DAY
Eastside:
2230 Barnett Shoals Rd.
Athens, Ga.
Downtown:
229 E. Broad St.
Athens, Ga.
www.fivestardaycafe.com


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East/West Bistro fails to impress

By DANA ZELMAN

Because eating is such a routine and necessary activity, at times I think of it as a chore. I rarely call restaurant food “exceptional” or even worthy of its price, so I end up eating a lot of sandwiches and cereal. Like so many other restaurants, East/West Bistro didn’t move me. I might be picky, but this restaurant does not even come close to hitting the mark.

Having never been to this east-meets-west eatery, I had high hopes for East/West. Behind the spacious bar area is a beautifully constructed wine display. Warm decor and terracotta walls kept the momentum of my initial impression going, but as soon as we were seated, things began to roll downhill. The restaurant has a laid-back, alternative atmosphere, but perhaps too laid-back with regards to the wait staff; there were a number of servers with very dirty, long dreadlocks that made me fear slightly for my food.

There were very few other people dining on this Tuesday night, so our waitress greeted us quickly. They were out of one of my favorite pinot grigios, so I took extra time to peruse their wine list. East/West gets a lot of business from students, so naturally the wine list is simple and relatively inexpensive.

We started the night with appetizers. Asian pear hazelnut relish and tamarind, and wasabi aioli decorated a plate of buffalo mozzarella-infused crab cakes. Not the most harmonious combination, this quirky interpretation would never be able to challenge my allegiance to a traditional Maryland crab cake. The other appetizer, the sweet potato chips, was the highlight of our meal. Served with a bleu cheese dressing, the thinly-sliced sweet potato chips were outstanding; I was excited to try and make them for this upcoming Thanksgiving. But before I could even digest the appetizers, our entrees came.

My date’s dish tried to embody the East/West fusion theme of the restaurant: not enough sweet and sour pork, with cashews, onions and peppers, over too much yellow-tinted penne. It looked and tasted like a sub-par version of mall favorite Panda Express. He saved a portion, hoping for Wednesday’s lunch, but our waitress mistakenly threw it out. I did not, however, want to take home the rest of my tuna tataki. The eastern-inspired plate was a beautiful presentation, but nothing more. The tuna was tasteless and boring. The only thing I actually enjoyed was the seaweed salad and a disappointingly small spoonful of wasabi relish. It seemed like all the elements on my plate had been taken from a container and not actually made at the restaurant. I undoubtedly should have ordered a different entree from their massive menu.

Because the waitress discarded our leftovers, she offered us a complimentary dessert. I hoped to order a slice of the deep-dish apple pie or the tempting cookies’n’creme cake – but like the wine, the restaurant was out of both. Are Tuesday-night diners not worthy of a fully-stocked wine cellar and dessert tray? We settled for an Oreo cupcake a la mode and a piece of the mysteriously named Asian Dream pie. The first little mockery of a dessert was straight out of a grocery store bakery, a cold little white cupcake with the kind of overly sweet, maddeningly thick icing that sticks to the roof of your mouth. I always thought that “a la mode” implied that the dessert is heated before being served with ice cream, so I was annoyed at its complete lack of gooey-ness. The bizarre Asian Dream pie had a top layer the color of lime sherbet. It is flavored with the Chinese fruit yuzu, tasting something along the lines of fermented pineapple. The presentations were good, but dessert, like the courses before it, left me thinking, “I should have ordered something else.”

East/West has an ambitious, creative concept, but perhaps bites off more than it can chew. The menu is too large, and with the exception of the sweet potato chips, the execution is lackluster. Compared to similarly priced restaurants in Athens, like Last Resort or DePalma’s, East/West is lacking. Maybe we got the wrong things, or came on a bad night. But I do know that I won’t be coming back for more. I should have just stayed home for a sandwich.

VERDICT: Neither Eastern nor Western, this bistro only plummets further south.

EAST/WEST BISTRO
351 Broad St.
Athens, Ga.
www.eastwestbistro.com

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Mexicali lacks taste, literally

By BRITTANY COFER

Mexicali Grille has been serving the Athens community with its own brand of “authentic Mexican” food for nearly two decades.

With two locations, anyone in Athens has access to Mexicali. The margaritas are consistently voted the best in Athens, according to its Web site, and the dishes are described as “Mexican comfort food.” Mexicali Grille claims to provide its customers with the best quality, value and service in Athens.

I beg to differ.

The dimly lit establishment on College Station Road is one of the last places I’d go for quality or value. On a busy night the entrance alone would be enough to frighten away any party of more than two. The waiting area is nonexistent, leaving patrons to loiter outside if the restaurant is the least bit crowded.

As I walked in, luckily not subjected to the tiny waiting area between the wall and check-out counter, I noticed something strange. Many Mexican restaurants play Latino music to add to the atmosphere, trying to trick the customer into believing they are eating authentic Mexican dishes. Mexicali management apparently decided to forego the trickery and play a local classic hits station instead.

Then I started noticing other things that did not seem right. The wait staff consisted not of smiling men and women with interesting accents, but instead of tired-looking college students, who seemed ready to go home. My server was rather clumsy, spilling cold cheese dip all over my menu. “Just give it to me and I will go wash it off,” she said. I wonder how many times a night she has to wash her menus?

Mexicali’s Web site references a quote from Restaurantica.com stating the food is great and affordable. Since I do not know who the site is quoting, my best guess is someone who is not on a college budget and has suffered severe taste bud loss. The prices for the supposedly “great and affordable” Mexican food were outrageous. I have been to many Mexican restaurants and my plate is never over $8. The check for two adult meals, drinks and cheese dip included, was over $40.

The chilly cheese dip, which my menu enjoyed, was a little spicy for my taste, but otherwise not bad. I was pleased to see there was more than enough food, as there should be when charging roughly $10 per plate. But I was disappointed when I bit into my bland beef soft taco, which also was under heated. The rice was clumpy, but otherwise edible. I tried the chicken chimichanga, also lacking proper seasoning. My bland beef soft taco could not even be remedied by adding guacamole, since it too was tasteless. I might have had better luck nibbling on a napkin.

Beer selection was lacking, especially considering that Athens is a college town where drinking is a favorite common pastime. And oddly enough there were no Mexican beers on tap. Mexicali’s claims of authenticity were being destroyed with every passing moment.

I admit my experience may have been overshadowed by the fact that I felt as if I were eating in a dungeon. The poor lighting and hard booth seats made dining uncomfortable. Twice my drink disappeared at the same time the server did, forcing me to wait until she sashayed back to the table to grudgingly refill my sweet tea. Though not rude, the wait staff seemed indifferent and uncaring to customers. I watched as a family of four entered the restaurant and waited five minutes before anyone acknowledged their existence. The servers appeared more interested in their own conversations than in providing quality service.

I would not recommend Mexicali Grille. Its claims of serving quality, affordable food are utterly untrue. Cold cheese dip, under-seasoned meat and over-priced products make this the last place I’d go for a quality meal. There are plenty other Mexican restaurants in Athens, such as Taqueria del Sol, La Cazuela and La Parrilla, that provide a more authentic and pleasurable dining experience.

VERDICT: No es bueno.

MEXICALI
2301 College Station Rd,
Athens, Ga.
www.mexicaligrilleathens.com


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Cali 'N' Titos delivers burrito bliss

By ALEX DIMITROPOULOS

My walk to Cali ‘N’ Tito’s takes less than four minutes, but the destination feels like it should be a border or an ocean away. The first step onto the property falls on gravel, the staff is bilingual and the chips come in the colors of the Mexican flag.

The restaurant uses the casual slogan, “Enjoy Our Latin Thing!” and has an appropriately eclectic menu, featuring dishes native to several countries outside the United States. Visitors can order Cuban sandwiches, fried catfish burritos, fried plantains and staple Mexican selections like quesadillas and tacos. With the exception of the “Latin Lover’s Delight” tilapia dish and the 30-piece order of wings, no item on the menu exceeds $10. All trips abroad should be this reasonable.

The principal reason a dining experience here is unique, however, lies in the building, its decorations and the open, social atmosphere. Half the fun in visiting Cali ‘N’ Tito’s is playing the part of tourist or scavenger, noticing trinkets and details that are new to you, even if they aren’t new to the restaurant. The ceiling fans are idle not because of the temperature indoors, but because they could loosen items suspended from the beams overhead, possibly striking a customer with more culture than intended.

Depending on where you sit, you can spot a Super Pac-Man arcade game, a suspended bicycle and suitcase, framed paintings of matadors and advertisements for everything from Inca Cola to Nong Shim Bowl Noodle Soup, whose advertisement features both “The Best Taste Ever!” and “El Major Sabor de Siempre!”

“I feel condescended to by all these signs that aren’t in English,” my friend and one of two dining companions joked.

Cali ‘N’ Tito’s’ atmosphere is not foreign enough to induce culture shock, but some of the restaurant’s practices could jar first-time visitors. If you choose to bring your own beer, as you can in many indoor/outdoor restaurants, you have to pay $2 per person to drink them on any day Monday through Saturday. In addition, the staff provides little overall service—customers order up front, bus their own tables and fill up plastic cups from large metal cylinders marked “water” or “sweet tea” with Sharpie.

I had been to the restaurant before, and at least one thing remains constant: Cali ‘N’ Tito’s has the best burrito in Athens. “Tito’s Big Burrito” features a savory mix of meat, onions, peppers, mushrooms, rice, lettuce, tomatoes and cheese, and it has a more satisfying flavor than similar items at Agua Linda, Taqueria La Parilla and Willy’s Mexicana Grill. The first two lesser restaurants satisfy hunger more than taste, and their additional sauce or meal combinations fail to conceal a uniform blandness. The ingredients in Willy’s Mexicana Grill’s burritos are fresh and distinct but often unbalanced.

Cali ‘N’ Tito’s’ burrito delivers more color, smell and taste than the menu’s other items, which I often use to stave off my jog to the main-meal finish line. The potato-y slabs of fried sweet plantains, tiny tacos and empanadas are good, but pale in comparison. Avoid the overpriced, crumbling “Ricky Saltado” fajitas. The burrito is more filling, requires no assembly and gives a subtle unraveling of naturally sweet flavors.

Even with a BP gas station outside the window to my left, it was easy to forget that I was in a restaurant on 1427 South Lumpkin Street in Athens, Ga. A trip to the bathroom involves passing clothes lines, stacked dead televisions and doors marked with painted skeletons and “Men” or “Woman,” even though both units are single occupancy. Even the restaurant’s mistranslations are endearing.

The bulk of customers usually sit out front, where shrubs, trees, hanging records, plastic lounge chairs and a small boat attract hungry pedestrians, drivers and other potential diners. The business at Cali ‘N’ Tito’s has decreased dramatically and will remain low because of the cold, not the quality of the food. Cali ‘N’ Tito’s, like other exotic locales, depends on a tourist season. Brave the weather or make the trip when the heat and your appetite are on the rise.

VERDICT: Off-the-wall decor and on-the-spot burritos.

CALI 'N' TITOS
1427 South Lumpkin Street
Athens, Ga.
(706) 227-9979

The only resort

By KAMILA SZOLTYSEK

I’m ashamed to admit that it has taken me five years of living in Athens and countless rain-checks to lose my culinary virginity to the highly-acclaimed and historic Last Resort Grill.

As I approached the restaurant with a full balcony on a particularly nippy evening, I assumed the inside was full and prepared myself for the dreaded wait period.

My first of many pleasant surprises: a whopping three-minute delay.

An old-timey glass milk bottle, now filled with ice water, and a bread basket hidden under a neatly-folded cloth, appeared only moments after I had sat down, as if their arrival had been timed. At first glance, Gary, the waiter could’ve been mistaken for Count Olaf from “Lemony Snicket’s A Series of Unfortunate Events,” if it wasn’t for his pajama flannel and outdated Nike high-tops. His friendly smile and eager attitude made me laugh, and his chipper energy seemed honest and unforced as he crouched his long legs to recite the daily specials.

Gary answered the string of questions this wine connoisseur-in-training had about the double-sided wine list. After conferring with the bartender, a 2004 Byron Pinot Blanc, Santa Maria Valley (on special) was escorted for tasting. The subtle citrus cleansed my palate while I applauded Gary for his remarkable ability to make my white wine cravings tangible.

The steamy bread peeked out from under the luxurious cotton comforter with a sense of fleeting urgency. I wasted no time devouring the sourdough, embracing the peaceful atmosphere of the restaurant. Although the candle-lit tables had just enough room for comfort, the crowded restaurant wasn’t cluttered. And noise? Unusually muted.

The walls were adorned with a series of University of Georgia-themed oil paintings for sale, largely those of the famous wrought-iron Arch.

Gary returned with festive southwestern roll that seemed to warrant an “Ole!” “A crispy roll of southwestern flavors, finished with a spicy roasted tomato salsa” is a description too bland for the orgasmic burst of flavor hidden in this graciously-portioned appetizer. The presentation of the diced bell peppers formed a color wheel of sunny hues, until the blistered rolls were dissected and the rich goo of dill-infused cream cheese interrupted the plate composition.

The salad preceeding my entree would have been forgettable had it not been for the appetizing homemade jalapeno honey mustard dressing, a delectable condiment I’ll store in the noggin.

The anticipation for the U-10 scallop entree grew, with the other dishes passed off as foreplay. I was ready for my climax.

There it was, in divine glory. Four plump, plum-sized scallops circled around a monster of a plate, stealing the spotlight from the mountain of mashed potatoes and brittle onion rings in the center. I felt my taste buds dance as I tasted the lava-like consistency of the sweet gazpacho clinging to the succulent jumbo scallop.

Enduring the stomach-bursting pains was unbearable after the monstrous scallop dish, yet I couldn’t leave without a piece of tempting raspberry cheesecake and some Jittery Joe’s decaf. Delicately creamy and luscious at the same time, the cake sent my body into a euphoric trance, paralyzing by my impeccable dining experience. The pacing of the dishes was timed in sync with my slow-eating nature as Gary did not pressure us out the door.

After spending two relaxing hours at Last Resort Grill, I now understand the hoopla. The casual attitude of the staff combined with the sophisticated menu and table decor creates an ambiance attracting young and old alike. The support of local artists and businesses like Jittery Joe’s also encourages repeat customers.

The simple idea of leaving a jug of water at the table reduces the stress on the server as well as the annoyance of thirsty customers. Cleaning the tables of the finished placed by whoever walks by is such a brilliant practice of the staff that it’s astounding to me that I can recall no other restaurant that shows the same hospitality.

I feel cheated now that I have experienced the pampering of Last Resort Grill. The service alone is worth the bill, but the heavenly food is worth twice that. What essentially resulted in two six-course meals and a bottle of wine had me fork over just under a Benjamin, before Gary’s well-deserved tip. Last resort? Nuh-uh. The only resort.

VERDICT: Stomach-exploding goodness worth the price.

LAST RESORT GRILL

174-184 W. Clayton St.

Athens, Ga.

www.lastresortgrill.com

Time out at Clocked

By LOLA PAK

Going to Clocked came by default. My party of three had originally planned to dine at Farm 225 when a chalkboard sign told us it was closed due to a private party. Not willing to spend another 20 minutes searching for parking in a foodier area of downtown Athens, we settled on the tiny burger diner on West Washington Street, just a stone's throw from our original choice.

It was not my first time at Clocked, but it felt different. As I faced the bar and kitchen rather than the large-window views of the courtyard, I was able to notice the round, kaleidoscope-like lamps dangling from the ceiling and the mini TV propped on top of the beer fridge showing Ultraman, the futuristic Japanese show from the ‘60s.

Subtitled and unrealistic, it obviously wasn’t on for anyone to watch, but it suited the diner’s retro décor by matching the enormous Ultraman posters on the green rococo wallpaper. Townie hipsters clustered around one of the tables-for-two by the door, while your average fraternity duo sat close by, nursing beers without food.

It’s easy to see why—the menu had little to offer, with little beyond hot sandwiches and burgers for a suitable dinner. Perhaps their menu lunch of a (plain) salad or Terrapin Ale vegetarian chili would be more appealing. The guava Italian soda would also have made a nice afternoon pick-me-up.

On this night, however, the choices were few, as well as the staff. They appeared flustered as they wiped down one table and brought ketchup to another, completely bypassing our group. It would be another 10 minutes before we received our drinks.

Sipping on Cokes and Terrapin’s Golden Ale, we stared at the oblong paper menu for five minutes, trying to decide between sandwich or burger (neither the hummus and pita starter nor State Fair Corn Dog specialty were appealing). Both myself and a friend settled on the mushroom and Swiss cheeseburger with sides of tater tots and French fries, while my roommate got the turkey melt with potato salad.

The sides arrived first, followed by two reactions of disgust. The potato salad had an unexpected celery taste, while the French fries were browned to the point of brittle. Strange, as the tots were as golden as the beer. What kind of fryer does Clocked use, and should anyone ever have to ask that question?

Fortunately, the entrees arrived shortly after, surprising us with its perfectly buttered and toasted buns with balanced proportions of the cheese and meat (thin to thick). The mushrooms were succulent, neutralizing the requested extra onions and going down smoothly with the beer. It was a comfortable burger-fries-beer combo meal, but in the end, it was still the default dinner option.

At least the décor was entertaining. Great conversations could spring from debating which decade had inspired it. Our conclusion was that it is a pure patchwork: the contemporary lamps hovered above the ‘50s style black-and-white floor tiles, while Appalachian-crafted wooden napkin holders graced the tables; classy, stemless wine glasses stood overturned on a shelf behind the bar next to a child’s coloring project and a set of keys hung on a thumb tack. Clocked’s motto is “…food for the space age…” but the eccentric ambiance was far trippier than anything on the menu.

Paying took an eternity and the confined dining space brought a near collision with a server on the way out. Cramped, slow and dull on the palate, our time at Clocked finally came to its end, with a doubtful chance that we’ll be checking back in anytime soon.

VERDICT: It's just a burger.

CLOCKED

259 W. Washington St.

Athens, Ga.

www.clockedrestaurant.com

Taqueria del Sol satisfies skeptical foodie

By COLIN DUNLOP

I just don't understand the hype.

Ever since the strange, modular gray structure on Prince Avenue was identified as a future Taqueria del Sol, my friends have been going nuts. "It's so awesome," they all said.

Well it's not awesome, but it's definitely better than average. Taqueria del Sol's set up is pretty uncomplicated: stand in line, order at the counter, sit down and the food comes to you. Usually I hate waiting in line, but the nice thing about TDS is that alcohol can be inserted anywhere in this equation — and with a 45-minute line, it's a welcome relief. Add in large hanging space heaters and benches along the way and waiting in line becomes much less of a chore.

Walking into TDS, it's easy to forget you're in Athens. Usually, when a new restaurant comes to town it's just new wallpaper on ancient walls, but with Taqueria del Sol's modular, minimalist design it feels like Atlanta's Midtown scene. Seating is mostly contained in a convertible shelter, with more hanging space heaters providing ample heat and plastic windows covering large windows rolled down for colder days.

Inside, the bar area displays a large selection of tequila, but just a few other liquors off to the side. Eighteen types of beer sit above the ordering counter — many of which are Mexican imports — but the real treat is TDS's margaritas. Almost every patron in line was holding one, so I knew that I'd have to have one too.

The menu has a weekly rotating schedule of dinner specials (a chef's, a seafood and a taco special), as well as their regular staple menu with six original tacos, four styles of enchiladas and a host of side items. There's definitely no comfort foods on the menu — save the rice and beans — so if you're in the mood for more traditional Mexican fare head down Prince Avenue to Aqua Linda.

Starting off, the cheese dip was great, but didn't vanish nearly as quick as the guacamole. The chunky bits of avocado were seasoned well, and the endless chips made quick work of the starter. It didn't matter, though, as the main dishes were hastily delivered.

I sampled four of the six soft-shelled tacos and the fish was by far the best. The Carnita was a promising pork-filled tortilla, but with an exceedingly spicy salsa center. The brisket was overly dry, shredded, and with a small helping of pico de gallo to top it off. Being adverse to large helpings of mayonnaise, the fried chicken taco was disappointing (I really love fried chicken). I hesitantly tried the fish taco and was pleasantly surprised by how truly delicious it was.

The fish was a lightly-breaded fried tilapia. It didn't taste as aquatic as I feared and the poblano tartar sauce was the perfect tangy compliment. The taco normally comes served with jalepeños, but after the Carnita's tongue torching I made sure to have a bite without the dark green accents.

It is worth mentioning that Taqueria del Sol is pretty cheap. The tacos and sides are only about $2 apiece — and you get a lot for what you order. Five tacos, guacamole dip, rice, beans, a frozen margarita and a Diet Coke was only about $26. Now that I know it won't break the bank, I'll definitely be going back to sample more exotic fare — especially the Memphis barbecue taco. I'll probably also have to have the guacamole again too. Oh, and of course a pitcher of frozen margaritas.

Damn.

Maybe I am starting to understand the hype.

VERDICT: Affordable Mexican food? Great. Affordable, good Mexican food? Even better.

TAQUERIA DEL SOL
334 Prince Ave.
Athens, Ga.
www.taqueriadelsol.com (w/ menu)

Alessio's offers OK food, family-friendliness

By JENNIFER PAXTON

For most, mentions of Italian food conjure images of romantic, candlelit dinners. A bottle of Chianti, mellifluous sounds of Luciano Pavarotti complement delectable lasagna and sugar-sprinkled cannolis. Aside from Little Italy in Manhattan, these ritzy restaurants are extinct in the suburbs. In Alpharetta, Ga., families get their Italian fix with a balanced blend of taste, price and family-friendliness at their local pizzeria. There may be Chianti involved, but The Eagles reign over Pavarotti, and the pizza pie dominates immaculate fettuccini. Candles, obviously, are out of the question.

My parents, younger brother and I went to Alessio’s Restaurant on a busy Saturday evening. Pizza boxes stacked like skyscrapers, Rat Pack posters and ESPN screens surrounded us. We were seated promptly in a large booth by a young gentleman no older than 15. In fact, most of the staff looked as if they just got their driver’s licenses. But don’t let their youth fool you. The wait staff was surprisingly fast and attentive. The manager was always visible, either assisting cooks or conversing with customers.

The restaurant has ample space with plenty of booths, an arcade in the back for the kiddies, and lots of floor room for the servers to maneuver large pie trays while dodging hyperactive children (having former experience serving at a pizzeria, this is a huge plus). A large bar encircles the open-view kitchen. Alessio’s feels like a really big living room you can’t wait to watch the big game in.

I wouldn’t call Alessio’s an Italian restaurant per se, but a sports bar with Italian undertones and a pizza fetish. It proudly calls itself a “New York pizzeria,” hinting at its Manhattan influence with clever menu titles. There’s the “Village Veggie,” “Manhattan Meat,” and “The Soho” pizzas, and of course “New York cheesecake,” but I always look at that one with a skeptical eye. What cheesecake doesn’t hail from NY these days?

Aside from vast pizza options, Alessio’s pleases the Italian foodie with strombolis, calzones and every pasta imaginable. Otherwise, burgers, salads and buffalo wings satiate the traditional eater. Several draft beers and a lengthy wine list relieve exhausted parents. Whatever you’re in the mood for, Alessio’s probably offers it.

My mother and I both ordered the house Pinot Grigio. Great winos think alike – generously large glasses and a crisp finish after each sip was the perfect way to start our meal. After perusing the gargantuan menu, I settled on the calzone with pepperoni, gorgonzola cheese and onions. My mother ordered a small “Village Veggie,” my father went with the eggplant parmesan and my brother took the American route with a dozen buffalo wings.

My mother said it best in the car on the way home: “That was just one of those meals that you have and then, eh, never think about it again.” It wasn’t terrible, but it wasn’t life-changing for our taste buds either. My calzone was drowning in mozzarella cheese with a mere four pepperonis clinging to the dough for dear life. It was as if the cook had an undying love affair with cheese he or she just couldn't let go of. The onions were scarcely spread throughout and the gorgonzola was seemingly absent from my order – basically, bread and a whole lot of cheese for $10. The “Village Veggie” was decent and generous with its toppings, especially broccoli. The buffalo wings were buffalo wings, and the eggplant parmesan was sufficient.

Aside from the superb wine, our meals were the equivalent of buying shoes at Payless. You know you’re taking the less elegant route, and you’re technically getting just what you asked for, so you don’t have much room to complain. But you were secretly hoping you’d hit the jackpot. Maybe we can find an affordable, Italian-American establishment with room for kids to frolic and sports scores abound, and it has unbelievable food, we hoped. Predictably, no such luck at Alessio’s, but what it lacks in impressive food it makes up for in satisfactory atmosphere.

Perhaps I’m asking too much to combine family-friendliness with deliciousness, but as long as the kids stay out of the kitchen, Alessio’s should strive to achieve both.

VERDICT: Winos and kids welcome, but don't expect a phenomenal meal.

ALESSIO'S
5354 McGinnis Ferry Rd.
Alpharetta, Ga. 30005
www.alessiosrestaurant.moonfruit.com