Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Taqueria del Sol satisfies skeptical foodie

By COLIN DUNLOP

I just don't understand the hype.

Ever since the strange, modular gray structure on Prince Avenue was identified as a future Taqueria del Sol, my friends have been going nuts. "It's so awesome," they all said.

Well it's not awesome, but it's definitely better than average. Taqueria del Sol's set up is pretty uncomplicated: stand in line, order at the counter, sit down and the food comes to you. Usually I hate waiting in line, but the nice thing about TDS is that alcohol can be inserted anywhere in this equation — and with a 45-minute line, it's a welcome relief. Add in large hanging space heaters and benches along the way and waiting in line becomes much less of a chore.

Walking into TDS, it's easy to forget you're in Athens. Usually, when a new restaurant comes to town it's just new wallpaper on ancient walls, but with Taqueria del Sol's modular, minimalist design it feels like Atlanta's Midtown scene. Seating is mostly contained in a convertible shelter, with more hanging space heaters providing ample heat and plastic windows covering large windows rolled down for colder days.

Inside, the bar area displays a large selection of tequila, but just a few other liquors off to the side. Eighteen types of beer sit above the ordering counter — many of which are Mexican imports — but the real treat is TDS's margaritas. Almost every patron in line was holding one, so I knew that I'd have to have one too.

The menu has a weekly rotating schedule of dinner specials (a chef's, a seafood and a taco special), as well as their regular staple menu with six original tacos, four styles of enchiladas and a host of side items. There's definitely no comfort foods on the menu — save the rice and beans — so if you're in the mood for more traditional Mexican fare head down Prince Avenue to Aqua Linda.

Starting off, the cheese dip was great, but didn't vanish nearly as quick as the guacamole. The chunky bits of avocado were seasoned well, and the endless chips made quick work of the starter. It didn't matter, though, as the main dishes were hastily delivered.

I sampled four of the six soft-shelled tacos and the fish was by far the best. The Carnita was a promising pork-filled tortilla, but with an exceedingly spicy salsa center. The brisket was overly dry, shredded, and with a small helping of pico de gallo to top it off. Being adverse to large helpings of mayonnaise, the fried chicken taco was disappointing (I really love fried chicken). I hesitantly tried the fish taco and was pleasantly surprised by how truly delicious it was.

The fish was a lightly-breaded fried tilapia. It didn't taste as aquatic as I feared and the poblano tartar sauce was the perfect tangy compliment. The taco normally comes served with jalepeƱos, but after the Carnita's tongue torching I made sure to have a bite without the dark green accents.

It is worth mentioning that Taqueria del Sol is pretty cheap. The tacos and sides are only about $2 apiece — and you get a lot for what you order. Five tacos, guacamole dip, rice, beans, a frozen margarita and a Diet Coke was only about $26. Now that I know it won't break the bank, I'll definitely be going back to sample more exotic fare — especially the Memphis barbecue taco. I'll probably also have to have the guacamole again too. Oh, and of course a pitcher of frozen margaritas.

Damn.

Maybe I am starting to understand the hype.

VERDICT: Affordable Mexican food? Great. Affordable, good Mexican food? Even better.

TAQUERIA DEL SOL
334 Prince Ave.
Athens, Ga.
www.taqueriadelsol.com (w/ menu)

1 comment:

Brian Creech, said...

I feel like there's a lot of Mexican food on this blog, but then again, there's a lot of Mexican food in Athens. This post does a great job of pointing out what makes TDS unique as the new kid on the block, especially with their stellar guacamole and non-Athenian architecture. "New wallpaper on ancient walls" is a clutch phrase for most things in this town and could probably be extrapolated into a more general bit of cultural criticism about Athens.